Seit April bearbeitet der Verein Werkstätte Drahtzug in Zürich unsere Bestellungen. Bis zu diesem Zeitpunkt lagerten und versendeten wir die Hemden selbst. Die Nachfrage an unseren Produkten ist im letzten Jahr stark gestiegen. Es war für uns deshalb ein wichtiger Schritt die Lagerhaltung und den Versand in andere Hände zu geben, damit wir uns auf die Weiterentwicklung unserer Produkte, der Kollektion und der Vertriebskanäle fokussieren können.
Der Verein Werkstätte Drahtzug bietet Wohn- und Arbeitsmöglichkeiten für Menschen mit psychischer Beeinträchtigung. Drahtzug bietet über 200 begleitete Arbeitsplätze in diversen Bereichen. Dazu gehören Gartenpflege, Verpacken und Versenden von non-Food Artikeln, Bürounterhalt, Montagearbeiten oder der Briefversand, um einige zu nennen. Zudem bietet Drahtzug Ausbildungsplätze für junge Menschen im Bereich Logistik, Office und Betriebsunterhalt an. Insbesondere unsere Hemden werden unter Aufsicht von ausgebildeten Fachkräften von Lernenden verpackt und versendet.
Die Zusammenarbeit mit Drahtzug hat sich mittlerweile eingependelt und wir freuen uns, dass wir für den Versand und die Lagerhaltung einen verlässlichen Partner gefunden haben. Einer der Betreuer, der die Lernenden in ihrem Arbeitsalltag begleitet, ist Osman Surdulli. Er ist ausgebildeter Logistiker und hat zudem eine Ausbildung als Arbeitsagoge abgeschlossen. Wir waren letzte Woche auf Besuch bei Drahtzug und haben ihm ein paar Fragen gestellt.
Osman, wie lange arbeitest du bereits bei Drahtzug?
Seit 12 Jahren
Was sind deine Aufgaben?
Ich bin Leiter des Geschäftsfelds Logistikdienstleistungen. Ich leite und koordiniere die Aufgaben der Mitarbeitenden sowie Lernenden und Beschäftigten im Bereich Versandhandel und Logistik.
Was sind die Herausforderungen in deinem Beruf?
Die grösste Herausforderung ist es, die Balance zwischen dem sozialen und wirtschaftlichen Auftrag zu finden. Unsere Beschäftigten sind nicht so stark belastbar wie andere Menschen. Wir können sie nicht überfordern. Gleichzeitig erwarten unsere Kunden natürlich, dass wir ihre Aufträge korrekt und schnell ausführen. Hier müssen wir eine gute Balance schaffen.
Was schätzt du an deiner Tätigkeit
Mich freut es immer sehr, wenn ich die Entwicklung unserer Mitarbeiter und Lernenden mitverfolgen kann und sehe welche positiven Schritte sie beruflich und als Menschen mit unserer Unterstützung gehen können.
Lieber Sebastian, du spielst am 17. Oktober unter deinem Pseudonym Into Orleans bei uns im Showroom in Zürich ein Solo Konzert. Wie würdest du deine Musik beschreiben?
Bei diesem Projekt geht es mir primär darum, alle Möglichkeiten offen zu lassen. Es sollte weniger ein bestimmtes Genre abdecken, als stets ein kreatives Ventil für mich sein. Angefangen hat es ziemlich folkig, momentan dominiert die angezerrte E-Gitarre. Wer weiss, vielleicht spiele ich in vier Jahren Schlager.
Woher nimmst du die Inspiration und Geschichten zu deinen Songs?
Oft handelt es sich dabei um einen Eintopf von verschiedenen Eindrücken. Mehrere Personen und deren Geschichten werden zu einer gestampft. Es wird mit verschiedenen Perspektiven gespielt. Ich klaue aus Zeitungen oder Büchern. Um mich selbst geht es dabei höchst selten.
Was hat es mit deinem Namen auf sich?
Es handelt sich dabei um einen Projektnamen. Da ich nie einen Künstlernamen wollte, habe ich mich für einen Titel entschieden, der für diese Musik stehen sollte; ob sie nun Solo oder in Bandformation vorgetragen wird.
“Into Orleans” verbinde ich mit einem Moment, den ich auf einer Reise durch Frankreich hatte. Mit der Amerikanischen Hafenstadt in Louisiana hat es somit nichts zu tun.
Welchen Song wünscht du, hättest du selber geschrieben?
Da gibt es einige. Z.B. “River Man” von Nick Drake oder “Disintegration” von The Cure.
Bier oder Wein?
Sowohl als auch!
Du bist gerade von Luzern nach Zürich gezogen. Hast du schon ‘ne Lieblingsbar in Zürich?
Ich mag das El Lokal sehr gerne. Auch haben es mir die Mars Bar und die Gotthard Bar angetan. Eine neue Stammkneipe habe ich jedoch noch nicht gefunden.
Für ein Abendessen mit welchem/welcher Künstler/in würdest du dein letztes Hemd geben?
Hmm, ich bin nicht so starstruck, dass ich alles dafür geben würde, aber zu einem Znacht mit interessanten Menschen sage ich durchaus nicht nein. Da fallen mir in erster Linie Lukas Bärfuss, Else Lasker-Schüler und Laura Marling ein. Nick Cave wäre ebenfalls ein willkommener Tischgenosse.
Welche Projekte stehen bei dir an?
Diesen Sommer wurde das neue Into Orleans Album aufgenommen und ich freue mich, es dann im Frühjahr ’20 zu veröffentlichen. Ein Musikvideo ist ebenfalls in Planung.
Mit der Band “Maple Tree Circus” werden wir diesen Herbst eine EP aufnehmen und ein paar Performance-Videos filmen.
Zudem freue ich mich, als Multiinstrumentalist mit der Bündner Musikerin Martina Linn ein paar Konzerte zu spielen.
Wir freuen uns auf dein Konzert! Danke für deine Zeit ☺
We have been working with a Portuguese weaving mill and a shirt manufacturer for around one and a half year. The cooperation with the Portuguese suppliers has already taken me to Portugal several times. The last visit dated back already one year. It was time to meet them again. With this blog entry I would like to share with you some impressions of my last week's trip to Portugal.
Porto as gateway to the textile region of Portugal
The textile economy of Portugal is mainly located in the more industrialized north of the country. The starting point for my supplier visits is usually Porto. Around Porto, Braga and Guimarães there are countless companies that operate in various forms in the fashion or textile industry. Porto, the eponymous city of the country, has many attractions to offer. It is popular with tourists and is known for its romantic narrow streets, colorful houses, the São Bento train station or the wine cellars that line the Douro River. On the street corners you can see young students dressed in black robes making music with Portuguese guitars or performing their rituals of reception for their student groups. One inevitably thinks of Harry Potter. And indeed, J.K. Rowling stayed in Porto for a while and was inspired by the city for the stories of the world-famous sorcerer's apprentice.
Since the beginning of CARPASUS, we have been successfully working together with an Austrian weaver and a shirt manufacturer in Bosnia-Herzegovina. However, we were aware that we needed to add more partners to achieve greater flexibility in the design of our collections. The construction of the supply chain in Portugal took some time. The search for new production partners is not always easy. Quality, price, communication and values must be right. We traveled to Portugal for the first time in spring 2017 on the recommendation of the Portuguese Foreign Trade Chamber in Germany in order to find new partners. The country is trying to attract foreign companies and investors. After the economic crisis, which culminated in the country being bailed out of bankruptcy by the International Monetary Fund and the EU with EUR 78bn, Portugal seems to be recovering again. We keep hearing about other brands, which are also increasingly producing in Portugal.
Visit to the Shirt Factory
First I met with our shirt manufacturer Marfel. The company with about 240 employees is located in Felgueiras. The city is best known for shoe production. Nevertheless, Marfel is one of the biggest employers there. The company produces only shirts and blouses and is thus a specialist in this field. Marfel has been involved in three of our latest collections so far. Currently all our casual shirts come from this production. The meeting was about giving feedback on the shirts already delivered for this spring and summer, discussing the planning for the coming fall and, of course, the new designs for spring and summer 2020. The next fairs, where the spring and summer trends for the next year are presented, are already approaching. CARPASUS does not follow trends as strongly as other fashion labels, which is not least due to the timelessness of our product. Nonetheless, we also want to bring in new designs, colors and materials to our collections on a regular basis. We are very excited to show you the new shirts for fall. You will love them.
Guimarães, meeting at the weaving mill Somelos
After the meeting at Marfel, the visit to the weaving mill Somelos followed. When we started looking for possible weaving mills in Portugal, we soon found what we needed. Somelos is known worldwide and is one of the best weaving factories in Portugal. In addition to a weaving mill, the company also runs a spinning mill. The company is located in Guimarães, a small town about 50 km from Porto. The city is considered the cradle of the Portuguese nation. Portugal's first king Alfonso I. was apparently born in the historic castle of Guimarães. The town has received UNESCO World Heritage status and attracts many tourists for its history and its pretty architecture.
Somelos employs about 550 people, has existed since 1958 and produces about 6 million meters of fabric every year. This amount would be enough for the production of about 4 million of our shirts! The production of organic fabrics still accounts for only about 5%. As hardly any weaving mill has organic cotton fabrics in stock, we have to design and weave fabric designs just for our purposes. This often leads to the challenge of being able to handle the minimum quantities while at the same time creating appealing designs. Last week's visit included completing the fabric orders for the Fall / Winter 2019 collection and identifying the sample fabrics for the Spring 2020 collection.
More transparency of our production line
Since the beginning of our cooperation, we have been trying to get as much information as possible about the origin of the used organic cotton. Initially, the fabrics from the Somelos weaving mill were "only" made from GOTS certified organic cotton. GOTS stands for Global Organic Textile Standard and is a respected standard for the processing of organic cotton. Usually, when using GOTS yarns nly the country of origin of the raw materials can be traced. It is more difficult to get the information, which organization has cultivated the organic cotton.
This is different with the yarns of the Swiss company Remei AG. Based in Rotkreuz, Remei trades with organic yarns and runs its own organic cotton projects in Tanzania and India with the bioRe® organizations. Anyone who already knows CARPASUS is aware that our Classic Shirts are made primarily from this organic cotton. The organic cotton from Remei is also cultivated according to the GOTS standard. In addition, the cotton farmers receive a fair-trade premium and a purchase guarantee. Moreover, the bioRe® Foundation supports infrastructure projects in the areas of education, nutrition, health and agriculture. Of importance to us; we know from which projects the organic cotton comes. This organic cotton bears the label bioRe® sustainable cotton.
The incorporation of a new yarn supplier is always associated with process changes and adjustments to the loom settings for the weaving mill. Meanwhile, we were able to convince Somelos to process Remei’s yarns even for our small quantities. We are very happy about this. Currently, we use substances from bioRe® and GOTS yarns and will probably continue to do so in the future. For example, the Oxford shirts are made from GOTS yarns. Most Classic and Flannel shirts, on the other hand, are made from bioRe® yarns. I would like to report on the reasons why we rely on both standards and organic cotton qualities in another blog post.
From raw cotton to fine yarn
Our contact person from Somelos, Rosa Maria Marques, and I quickly got through with our meeting and could use the time to visit the nearby spinning mill Mundifios. It was my first visit to this spinning mill. The portuguese mill spins almost exclusively organic yarns made of different materials (wool, linen, cotton), but also trades in organic yarns and conventional yarns that are spun elsewhere. Part of our used GOTS yarn comes from Mundifios. They are in turn used for fabric production by Somelos.
One of the company owners, Paulo Fernandes, took me around his business. It is always impressive to see how these fine yarns are spun from bales of raw cotton. By the way, as with Mundifios, a lot of Swiss machinery and know-how is often involved in this process. The spinning mill is equipped with Rieter and Saurer spinning machines. Mundifios promised to provide more information on the origin of GOTS organic cotton. That should enable us to create even more transparency about our supply chains
The trip to Portugal was definitely worth it. The contact and the relationship with our suppliers is very important to us. Possibility to improve our cooperation or the product often stay closed through the mere exchange of mails and phone calls. Face-to-face conversations are much more helpful. Of course, the visits also allow you to enjoy the Portuguese way of life for a few days, to fill the Pastéis de Nata reservoirs and to get to know new places. After the supplier visits I took some time off to explore the wine-growing area of the Douro Valley before returning to Switzerland. Portugal, até breve!
We haven't written any new blog post for a long time. We want to revive our blog and provide more background information on the CARPASUS world. In various contributions we would like to offer personal insights into the development of our brand and the development of a small fashion company, to report on innovations, trends, sustainability in the fashion and textile industry, to present inspiring projects or to share other thoughts with you.
We wish you a good read and appreciate your feedback and comments.
The sock used to be a useful, but hardly noticed piece of equipment for daily business life. However, today it rose to an important accessory for an appearance in style. A carefully selected sock color gives your suit a special touch. But what socks to choose to complete your look? A case for socks and tips for a confident sock-appearance.
The golden rule of socks
The color range of a suitable sock has two cornerstones; the color oft he shoes and the suit, in case of doubt orientate them on the color of your suit. The sock color should therefore be chosen between the shoe and suit color; with a grey suit and brown shoes, neither white nor black socks are a perfect match. The common choice of black is therefore not always the right one. Furthermore, although the color should match the shoe and suit color, one should avoid a boots-effect by choosing exactly the same color. Vary your outfit with dark grey, blue or burgundy.
The art of combination
The slightly more eye-catching burgundy is particularly well-matched if it reflects the color of the tie or pocket square. Anthracite suits always go well with a dark grey or black, especially in combination with brown shoes. The navy blue suit in combination with darker shoes, can be smoothly complemented with dark blue socks.
Keep yourself covered
The same applies for the sock as for the rest of the outfit: They should always generate a professional picture. Loose threads, holes or stains ruin your appearance. Furthermore you should never show your leg. Short socks are out of place – a small horizon of skin between sock and pants interrupts the outfit and irritates business partners.
What socks are made of
One thing is for sure: A high share of cotton is mandatory. Business socks also consist of elasthan and polyamide to give them a certain flexibility. However, more than 20% of these synthetic fibres lead to inconveniences: They lead to unpleasant smell and stretch over time, as that the skin shines through. Cotton still remains an unbeaten classic. It lets the foot breathe and stays opaque. A mix of cotton and new wool is also a widely spread combination.
Always pay attention to the right material mixture when buying your socks. Always choose the right size. Is the sock too big, unsightly fabric rolls will show over your shoes. The sock should sit tightly around your foot and leg. And always think of the suit you want to wear your socks with. A well chosen sock will complement your outfit and shows quality and style. What is your favorite brand, color or pattern? Leave a comment below to inspire others.
Every year a business date of the special kind pops up in our calendar: The annual Christmas party. But how does a gentleman behave at such an event between work and pleasure? Blunders stay rarely within the event and can quickly damage your reputation. The following etiquette-manual might help.
Rule 1 – Go there
One might think about not going at all to avoid some serious blunders. However, by not going you will put your foot in it. By staying away from the celebration, you will quickly get the stamp of being arrogant and solitary. Furthermore it won’t help, if you cannot talk about all the fuss after the big party. However you should be careful not to become the subject of the fuss yourself.
Rule 2 – The dresscode
As for the dresscode, the business party is never to be confused with a family celebration. Except of course, you love to show yourself in a modest business look within the family. Of course you are allowed to take your nicer jacket out, maybe a pair of cufflinks or even a different hairstyle is alright. However you should always avoid any kind of garment, which might draw some office gossip with it. Save the duck tie for your family dinner. The bilious green jacket might draw some attention to it, but it is hardly any of the good kind. Neither jeans nor smoking are a suitable companion (unless it is expressly desired).
Rule 3 – The greeting
The first blunder might already happen at the greeting. Here too, just because the event carries the casual name ‘Christmas party’, this will change nothing on the formal greeting. Who doesn’t give kisses in the office, shall stick to the handshake. If possible, it is always a nice gesture to greet the host first (which is usually your boss).
Rule 4 – Eat and drink in moderation
The third rule is known by everyone – but not everyone follows it. As a gentleman you will let the other go first to the buffet (or at least the host). A gentleman does not look as if he hasn’t eaten for the whole day, only to dig in now. However if you are really hungry, better take several walks of smaller plates. An overloaded plate looks greedy and without manners. Pay attention to the eating technique – some dishes might look delicious but they will put you into eating dilemmas you do not want to solve in front of your boss. Even more importantly, you should drink in modesty. One shared glass of wine is social but after you should stick to modesty. No matter how much you can drink among friends; the business event is no place to demonstrate these skills. Even if your boss drinks more than you – the boss will (probably) be less of a gossip topic than the drunk employee who showed a nice dance on the table.
Rule 5 – The right conversation
Talking about dancing: If it is part of the program, it is completely appropriate to do so – as long as you do not show your marvelous moon walk. However if you are not dancing but talking to your boss and colleagues, always be careful. Especially when talking to your superiors, do not go overboard with your tone and choice of topic. Vacation, the soccer game, even the weather is fine. But personal problems, business and gossip about your colleagues should never be part of the discussion. Never address you boss informally – even if he does. This does not mean he will stick to it the next day of office.
Rule 6 – possible gifts
At some business celebrations, gifts are common. Ask your colleague of trust about it, before you turn up with a handful of gifts. Generally you should never give anything which is part of a side blow (perfume, a nicer tie, a coupon for the hairdresser). Nothing that seems to intimate (a weekend-trip for him and his wife) but rather something neutral. Maybe a good wine, delicacies or a nice whiskey. However, gifts are usually not that common.
Good manners, a friendly appearance without fraternizing with your boss, and finally, not being the last one to leave the party, is crucial for your annual Christmas party – being a true gentleman.
Today it is part of any male (and often female) wardrobe: the business shirt. A symbol of sovereignty, business sense and elegance. The shirt accompanies us to the job interview, the crucial meeting, the wedding and the first visit with the parents-in-law. However how did the timeless classic come into being? Following a small biography about the arguably most important garment of a man.
Onto the skin
The shirt worked its way up in the course of time. Its predecessors existed already in the year 1’000 B.C., but until the end of the 19th century they served as underclothing only. The Old High German word ‘Hemedi’ actually meant skin. At the beginning it reached to the ground, was without any buttons and was worn as underwear or as pyjama – hence a nightshirt in its original form. In the beginning, the man needed to slip into the button-less shirt. In the middle ages, first forms of lace adornments and exchangeable collars appeared. In the Victorian era the white shirt became a symbol of status (1837-1901). The pure color did not only reveal a good job, where the man did not have to get dirty, but also was a sign of having enough money to regularly let the shirts be cleaned.
The first models were produced out of linen – only with the industrial revolution, at the end of the 18th century, the softer cotton became less expensive and therefore a more popular shirt material.
Against the collar
The history of the shirt can also be read off its collar. During the middle age they came in a thin cuff-look, while the extremely stiff collar was a symbol of the high society in 1840 – the harder and higher the collar, the more exquisite the shirt. In its most extreme form the collar reached up to the man’s ears. The less privileged without a big budget for the tailor combined the upper shirt with a detachable collar by himself.
Famous was also the wing collar. In German it got its name, ‘father murderer’, due to the sharp collar-edges, which frequently caused skin crack on the neck. While the shirt used to be worn with a scarf, it stunted, after the emergence of the downwards bent collar, to a symbolic bow tie.
During the First World War, softer shirts with attached collars were given to the soldiers. The man got used to this comfortable style and triggered a heated debate after the war between conservative stiff collar wearers and the new soft collar fans. Both forms are still existing today – whereas the soft, overlying collars can be seen on casual shirts and the business shirt’s stiff colors gained some comfort.
Until the last shirt
In the 19th century, the shirt got tailored tighter to the body. Until the end of the 19th century, the white shirt stayed a symbol of wealth – still today it is considered to be the most elegant form of the shirt. At the beginning of the 20th century todays shirt with the continuous button strip appeared and the time of the slip in shirt was definitely over.
By the way, the breast pocket is an invention of the 60ies; with the decline of the vest underneath the suit, an alternative place of deposit was needed.
The dress shirt is arguably one of the oldest pieces of cloth still existing. It might have changed its design over time, but it never got out of fashion.
A high-class shirt does not only convince in daily business life. A nice shirt should also be taken out – but where to? CARPASUS, the brand for sustainable quality shirts, put together a selection of places in style in Zurich.
Brunch at Bebek
The Bebek is the little sister of the Maison Blunt. The food is entirely dedicated to a local-oriental mix. Especially the brunch is worth taking your shirt out. The menu ranges from the small Turkish breakfast to the ‘Genossenschaftszmorge’ (the Cooperative’s breakfast). The restaurant with its five meter high ceilings and the window front at the back granting a glance into a tram parking hall offers the shirt a unique ambience.
Lunch at Rosaly's
The Rosaly’s is a small but beautiful restaurant. A bit hidden near Bellevue, just behind the ‘Sternengrill’, it does not only offer classics such as ‘Chässpätzli’ (traditional cheese noodles) or ‘Mistkratzerli’ (spring chicken), but also offers the meat of the Sternengrill on its menu. A nice selection for a lunch in your business shirt. However, the small restaurant with its excellent wine selection is also recommended for a date in the evening.
Coffee at La Stanza
The La Stanza swears by the Faema coffee machine from the year 1963 for its famous espresso. Reason enough to see for yourself what the fuss is all about. The classic-elegant atmosphere offers the shirt wearing man a suitable spot to take in some caffeine for the afternoon.
Dinner at Josef's
The Josef is revolutionary in Zurich: The restaurant near Langstrasse has abolished the main course – at least at night. Especially if you are one of the shirt wearing men who does not want to deal with tough ordering decisions at the end of the day, you get your money’s worth in the restaurant and bar. This way you can profit from more than one tasteful work of art.
A glass of wine at the Razzia
The Razzia is pompous – here you might need to pick the most elegant shirt out of your wardrobe. From frescos over the wall paper in the bathroom up to the giant giraffe, the restaurant creates its own special charm. In the former cinema you can now admire a range of fine wines instead of a projector and enjoy a glass of wine in style.
A last drink at Dante's
The Dante hosts, especially on weekends, a slightly younger crowd than the previous recommendations. Who would like to enjoy his drink while seated will either need to arrive early or during the week – the seats in the rather spartanly furnished Dante are limited. The drinks however leave hardly anything to be desired. Especially the variety of Gins made a name for itself in the city.
You have further ideas where the man should take his shirt out to? We look forward to your comments for new going out-tips!